Historic Buildings of Downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea

Alissandra Dramov, Arcadia Publishing

Book Review by Craig MacDonald

In 2018, Architectural Digest described Carmel as "stunning," naming it the prettiest town in California. With its incredible natural beauty, combining beaches, ocean, trees and historic architecture, the "village" 75 miles south of San Jose is a romantic, picturesque, magical, one-of-a-kind town.

"Carmel-by-the-Sea's historic architecture gives the downtown an appearance similar to an Old World village," concludes Historian/Journalist Alissandra Dramov, author of this new book.

"Although they may have been altered, many of the Romantic Tudor and Spanish Revival buildings that established the look of downtown in the 1920s and 30s, remain a major presence to this day."

Dramov proves her statement with an in-depth look at who created this Fairy Tale-type spot by researching many structures, architects, builders, politicians, celebrities and others who made it—and continue to make it—a dream-like reality. No wonder its one of the most visited places in California.

What made her search a challenge is that there are no street numbers in the quaint town "discovered" and homesteaded by artists and writers in the early 20th Century.

The first downtown structures were largely made of wood—Western False Front—with some Victorian & Craftsmen styles. It evolved into a European Village with Romantic European Revival, Tudor and Spanish Revival.

The author shows how it also had a Fairy Tale or Storybook sub-style of Tudor Revival, developed by local builder Hugh Comstock, creator of one of the town's most famous buildings in 1926—the Tuck Box Restaurant, with its wavy brick chimney.

Theater Impresario Edward Kuster designed the Court of the Golden Bough, to resemble a European Village. Buildings around the courtyard have thatched roofs & turrets.

One name which keeps popping up in exploring who built this village is M.J. Murphy. He helped establish the European and Mediterranean influence and had his hammer on a number of structures, including the City Hall, Harrison Memorial Library, Fire Station, Sunset School's Auditorium, the renovated La Playa Hotel, the expanded Pine Inn and Sunset School's Primary Classrooms 16, 17 & 18, which were creatively constructed to resemble residential cottages in 1929.

There are a lot of "Famous People" connections to Carmel's buildings. In 1905, Angela Ghirardelli, heiress to the Chocolate Company, and her husband, built the residence (that later evolved into the La Playa Hotel). Murphy rebuilt it in 1925 and there have been other renovations since.

In 1948, The Village Corner was built in Post Adobe style. For years, legendary artists Hank Ketcham (Dennis the Menace), Eldon Dedini (New Yorker) and Bill Bates (Carmel Pine Cone) met regularly for breakfast at the popular restaurant. (This reviewer and his wife ate there when Allen Funt of Candid Camera munched at the next table).

Bing Crosby created the Carmel Youth Center, designed by Architect Robert Jones in 1949. In 1972, Clint Eastwood helped establish the Hogs Breath Inn. (A couple years later, two young Bay Area students wrote a screenplay about Dirty Harry. They reportedly took it to the Hogs Breath and gave it to Eastwood's partner to give to him. He liked the ideas, had the script re-written and it became a hit movie, "The Enforcer." Eastwood's frustration with some of his dealings with the city led to him being elected Mayor of Carmel in 1986.)

In the 1980s, well-known singer & film star Doris Day became co-owner of the Cypress Inn, a Spanish Eclectic-style hotel built by Architects Roger Blaine and David Olson as Hotel La Ribera in 1929.

Edwin Snyder designed a Monterey Colonial Revival-style structure that gained fame for The Spinning Wheel Restaurant, which was on its first floor for 20 years.

Other structures of note, include the more than 100-year-old Carmel Bakery, a Western False Front with Victorian Details; the Carmel Mission, originally created by Father Serra in 1771, which has been restored three times; Carmel City Hall, built in Craftsman-style as an Episcopal Church in 1913, and the Harrison Memorial Library, created with a red tile roof by Architect Bernard Maybeck in 1928.

Modernism appeared in mid-20th Century designs by local Architects Robert Jones, Walter Burde, Will Shaw & Olof Dahlstrand.

As much as Carmel continues to evolve, it still maintains its special look in many of its churches, theaters, parks, hotels, restaurants and commercial buildings.

Because of this, the city by the sea is a delightful destination to explore by foot, bicycle or car. It emphasizes walking and the outdoors, with a variety of courtyards, passageways and landscaping.

You'll get a special feeling, gazing at this Fantasyland, whether you're an artist, photographer, writer or just a wandering tourist. It's a wonderful, memorable destination—one you will always remember. Alissandra Dramov is to be commended for her valuable contribution, which helps to explain the "magic" that is Carmel.

(The reviewer and his wife have always loved Carmel and written about & photographed it for The Los Angeles Times.)