KLAMATH FALLS, OREGON:

FROM ECOTOURISM TO BOATING, TO AWESOME FISHING, THIS IS A FABULOUS DESTINATION FOR ANYONE WHO LOVES THE OUTDOORS

By: Colleen Fliedner

 Klamath Falls is situated 15 miles north of the California border on the edge of Upper Klamath Lake, the largest fresh body of water in the Pacific Northwest. At an elevation of 4,140 feet, this is considered a high desert region. The summer months are dry and warm, and by late July, the once-verdant rolling hills have morphed into a pale shade of gold.

My husband and I were there during a record-setting heat wave, a sweaty situation that would slightly curtail things like long hikes. After going through the materials we had collected at the Tourist Information Center in Midland, about seven miles south of Klamath Falls, there were too many awesome must-sees and must-dos in the area to pass through too quickly. Although we had initially planned to spend one night there on our way to Crater Lake, we decided to allow at least four days to explore Klamath Falls and the centerpiece of the region, the Upper Klamath Lake.

Klamath Falls – The City Without a Waterfall!

There aren't any falls in Klamath Falls – no, really! There used to be a modest waterfall along the Link River, a wide, fast moving, river that connected Upper Klamath Lake with the much larger Lower Klamath Lake up until the early 1900's. Around 1908, the Federal Government drained Lower Klamath Lake and Tule Lake to create farmland for settlers. What was left after the drainage is little Lake Ewauna; a much smaller Lower Klamath Lake; a greatly reduced Tule Lake; hundreds of acres of fertile agricultural land; and a vast area of protected wetlands.

The original Klamath Falls dropped about 10 feet over a 150-foot-long down-slope. In 1921 a 16-foot high dam was built to control the water levels in Upper Klamath Lake and the "falls" became spillways, canals, a diminutive waterfall and rapids. Now, the Link River runs about two miles and drops 70 feet through the city's suburbs until it becomes Lake Ewauna.

It is a bucolic scene with small rapids, shady pools and marshy areas visited by hundreds of varieties of birds on their migrations, and a few lucky residents who have houses alongside this beautiful river setting.

Established as a frontier outpost in 1867 on the banks of the Link River, Klamath Falls was originally called Linkville. As the town grew, locals decided to rename their little burg Klamath Falls in 1893, honoring the local Klamath Indians and the nearby waterfall.

Today, the City of Klamath Falls is a mixture of old and new, like so many American towns on the way to somewhere else. It has gone through boom and bust and boom again, and is now a place to stay for recreational purposes, mostly relating to water activities on nearby Upper Klamath Lake.

The original downtown is located several miles west of Washburn Way. It has been designated as an historic area, and the buildings house everything from restaurants to beauty shops to retail stores. During the summer, there's an old fashioned trolley that takes you around town. Starting its route at the Klamath County Museum at 1451 Main Street, the trolley makes a 30-minute trip that covers the downtown area. You can hop on and off, visit the museums, shop or eat, and hop on again. And it costs a small fee.

The "Discover Klamath Visitor and Convention Bureau" is located at 205 Riverside Drive. Stop by for maps of the area.

If you enjoy history, geology, or viewing old photographs, Klamath Falls has several museums that are worthwhile. Be aware, however, that they are all closed on Sundays. It would be advisable to phone ahead to verify hours.

Baldwin Hotel Museum – Built in 1906 as an office building, the four-story structure was once the tallest building in Southern Oregon. The museum encompasses numerous floors and has more than 30 rooms filled with pioneer era exhibits and photographs. 31 Main Street 

Klamath Falls County Museum houses some really nice exhibits explaining the local natural history, geology and history. Many displays show Native American artifacts and dioramas and relate their stories. In front of the building, the volcanic tree mold is a visual reminder of the region's volcanic past. 1451 Main St.  co.klamath.or.us/

Favell Museum of Western Art sits adjacent to the Link River. Displays include over 100,000 Native American artifacts, the world's largest miniature gun collection, and the works of over 300 artists specializing in western art. favellmuseum.org

THE LAKE

Upper Klamath Lake is the main reason tourists come to the Klamath Falls area. The lake is famous for its diverse birdlife and the over-sized rainbow trout that are pulled out with relative ease.

As Oregon's largest lake, Upper Klamath Lake covers an area that is approximately 3 miles wide and 27 miles long, totaling 91,000 acres. Tourism was big by the early 1900s, when paddlewheelers and steamers transported passengers and freight around the extra-large lake. Today, there's more than ever to do at Upper Klamath Lake, and visitors number in the tens of thousands each year.

BOATING

Known as one of the finest pleasure boating lakes in the northwest, Upper Klamath Lake is great for fishing, sailing, waterskiing, and sailboarding. The lake is popular with west coast sailors, who come to compete in the frequent sailing regattas held by the Klamath Yacht Club. With 300 days of sunshine, boats can be found on the lake year-round.

Because the winds are steady and predictable, the lake was listed by Sailing Magazine as one of the 10 best lakes for sailing in North America.

Pelican Marina on the south end of the lake has boat rentals and a restaurant on the water. Boat slips are available to rent, including overnight moorage. Pelican Marina has storage, a porta-potty dump, an engine repair service, and they sell boat licenses and accessories.

FISHING

The Upper Klamath Lake is famous for the trophy-sized rainbow trout caught there. Five to seven pounders are caught regularly, and occasionally 15-pound trout are pulled in. Of course, fishing licenses are required and are available online, by mail, at many sporting goods stores and at some marinas.

Information about the best fishing spots during each season is also valuable and can be found online at many web sites. Try Googling "angling around Klamath Falls," and you'll find many resources.

BIRD WATCHING

As the one of the world's largest freshwater ecosystems, the Upper Klamath Lake area is one of the nation's richest bird refuges. It is an important stop on the Pacific Flyway for thousands of flocks of swans, herons, egrets, osprey, pelicans, geese and just about every type of waterfowl imaginable. In addition, between December and February of each year, Upper Klamath Lake has the greatest concentration of bald eagles in the lower 48 states.

There are six nationally designated wildlife refuges in the Klamath Lake Basin, and birding enthusiasts come to Klamath Falls by the busload each year to see as many of the 411 types as possible. There are several ways to view the birds: By canoe, kayak or rowboat; or by walking one of the pathways that wend around the lake. You can see quite a bit of wildlife along the Wingwatchers and Link River Trails. Trailheads for these paths are located close to the City of Klamath Falls.

LODGING

There are dozens of options, from the big chain hotels, to small locally owned motels to campgrounds on the outskirts of town. Please click here for our list of places to stay in Klamath Falls.

ROCKY POINT RESORT
If you would like to stay somewhere very unique, head to the Rocky Point Resort, a traditional lakeside establishment on the northwest edge of Upper Klamath Lake. Nestled in the pines at the end of a narrow roadway, Rocky Point Resort is exactly what you would expect a rustic resort to look like. Driving from State Highway 140 to Westside Road, and then to the narrow Rocky Point Road to reach the resort, you'll park in front of the small market, where you can find odds and ends of food and fishing items. This is also where you check in.

Small cabins are sprinkled through the woods. Most are pretty fundamental, though you really have everything you need, including a full kitchen: dishes, pans, glasses, silverware, and other essentials. Forget about t.v. and air conditioning when you stay here. The focus is on nature and leaving the modern world of technology behind.

In addition to the individual cabins, Rocky Point Resort includes five motel rooms, RV and trailer spaces with hook-ups, and tent camping sites.

Larry and Linda Merry own and run the historic resort, which will celebrate its 100th birthday next year. The "Restaurant at Rocky Point" is the heart — or perhaps, the stomach — of the resort. It's so popular among residents throughout the area that reservations are recommended, especially on the weekends. The food is surprisingly excellent, and the view is nothing less than gorgeous. Sunset on the lake creates a glassy pool of liquid orange and apricot colors, interrupted occasionally by a large fish leaping for a passing bug.

Speaking of bugs, bring your mosquito repellent. Where there is water, and especially marshy sections of the lake, there are bound to be gobs of those pesky bloodsucking critters. I must say, though, that I didn't get a single bite, thanks to my insect repellent. Most of the year is fine, but when the weather is very warm, the larva hatch. I was told that July was the worst month. Can you guess which month this human pin cushion chose to visit?

Rocky Point Resort rents canoes, or you can bring your own and launch it on the resort's property. The road dead-ends about 500 yards past the restaurant, and there's a place where you can launch your rowboat, kayak, motorboat, or whatever type of watercraft you've hauled to the lake.

At dinner that evening, we watched as a lone woman launched herself and her inner-tube into the lake at the public ramp. She wore her swimsuit and had a sort of knapsack with her…and a fishing pole. She "trolled" by allowing the current to carry her around the bay, pulling in her line whenever a fish nabbed her bait. Finally, after about 30 minutes of bobbing around, she caught a good-sized trout and paddled back to shore.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention the outstanding coconut shrimp and chicken marsala that we shared. I would highly recommend both dishes. And don't miss the excellent breakfasts on the porch overlooking the lake and marshland. Delicious and a view you won't forget.

The Canoe Trail

I don't know about you, but I had never heard of a canoe trail on a lake. Apparently, it's one of the lake's biggest draws, bringing kayak and canoe enthusiasts to Klamath Lake from around the globe. Larry Merry has maps of the Upper Klamath canoe trail, a 9-1/2 mile waterway that wends its way through the hundreds of acres of marshland located in this portion of the lake. You can travel any or all of the four segments of the canoe trail, paddling as fast or as slow as you wish. Bring your camera, a hat, sunscreen, and water, and plan to spend an hour or two watching nature at its finest.

In 1928 Congress made the 15,000 acre freshwater marsh a national wildlife refuge. In 1980, the canoe trail was established by the U.S. Forest Service and Fish and Wildlife service. This is the best way to see some of the hundreds of wildlife and bird species that live here. Of course, the types of creatures you will see is dictated by the four seasons. A few examples of the kinds of animals you can expect to view on your canoe trip are: beavers, muskrats, pelicans, osprey, Canada geese, and bald eagles.

Rocky Point Resort is open from April 1 through the end of October. rockypointoregon.com 

THE RUNNING Y RANCH

If you prefer staying at a luxurious resort, you will love the Running Y Ranch, which is located just north of Klamath Falls. The lodge has 82 rooms, including numerous suites that have kitchenettes and fireplaces. All of the rooms are lovely, and you can't go wrong with the view. For longer stays, there are privately owned vacation rentals: chalets, townhomes and custom homes.

The Running Y is a terrific, all-inclusive resort. We had planned to stay one night, but wound up staying three!! This is the kind of place where you and the family could spend a week's vacation fishing, boating, playing golf, kayaking, fly-fishing, hiking or birding trips.

Golf

The Running Y offers Oregon's only Arnold Palmer designed golf course. It has been ranked as one of the best courses in the entire state and is rated #46 among the top 100 public courses in America. The golf course is a member of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary system, a group that helps to preserve the natural beautiful of the area's landscape. The eighteen-hole course is situated on 3,600 acres of lush forest land and wetlands. The golf club facility includes a golf shop and the Ranch House restaurant overlooking the tree-studded greens.

Spa/Sports Center

The Sandhill Spa at the Running Y is a beautiful day spa which offers a full-range of services. Besides massages, facials, foot reflexology, and body treatments, they have a nail and hair salon.

The Sports Center includes an indoor pool and hot tub, a good-sized fitness center, a gift shop, and a small amusement center for kids. Outside, there are tennis and volleyball courts, and other games for adults and children. The resort's property includes a covered outdoor ice skating arena, although this is only open in the winter.

The Stables

The landscape adjacent to the edge of the lake on the southeast side is dotted with ranches, where cattle and horses graze lazily in the warm afternoon sun. It's here that you'll find the Running Y Ranch's private stables. The possibilities for picturesque rides are endless.

If you're not comfortable climbing on a horse, lessons can be arranged. Or how about taking a wagon ride that takes you along the scenic trails and stops for lunch along the way?

The resort can fulfill your dream of playing cowboy or cowgirl. The Running Y offers guests the opportunity to ride along on a cattle herding experience. There are also team ropings, barrel races, and other events offered at the stables.

ATV Adventures

If you're looking for a faster mode of transportation, the Running Y provides guided ATV tours through the countryside.

The Kids

Needless to say, the Running Y is a great family destination. Besides swimming, hiking, fishing, and a plethora of games offered at the resort, they have a children's program called "Lil' Buckaroos" on Fridays from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. at the stables. It's only $15 and includes kids' corral rides, lessons to learn how to rope dummies, wood branding, and a visit to a petting zoo.

Located at 5500 Running Y Road, just off of State Highway 140. runningy.com

FORT KLAMATH – THE HISTORIC SITE

Along State Highway 62, you'll pass through the little town of Fort Klamath, which is located about 20 miles north of Upper Klamath Lake. Named for the military fort that was built here in 1863, Fort Klamath includes a general store, several tiny motels, and one or two places to eat.

The former Union military post was responsible for keeping the peace in Southern Oregon. Soldiers from Fort Klamath fought in battles as far away as Idaho. Those who died at the fort were buried in the adjacent cemetery, though their bodies were removed decades ago and sent to San Francisco's Presidio for re-interment.

During the winter of 1889, huge snowstorms damaged many of the fort's buildings, and it was abandoned. Subsequently, most of the lumber was scavenged by the locals for their own use. A log cabin museum was constructed on the site of the original stockade where prisoners were kept. Sadly, that structure burned to the ground on October 16, 2001. A new replica of the original stockade building now houses the museum. For anyone interested in military or Indian history, the museum is worth a visit, as it includes some very interesting artifacts that have been found on the property where the fort used to stand.

Fort Klamath's biggest claim to fame is the fact that it was the site of the Modoc Indian War trials and executions. The actual battles with the Modoc Indians took place about 85 miles away in what is now Lava Beds National Park. Captain Jack and three other leaders of the Modoc tribe were tried and hanged here. Their graves remain at Fort Klamath.

CRATER LAKE

If you want to drive up to Crater Lake for the day, it's only about an eighty-minute trip. Staying at Crater Lake is like winning the lottery. Rooms are scarce and visitors abound, so if you hope to book a room, do it many months in advance. Frankly, you're better off finding a place to stay in the Klamath Falls area or at one of the resorts I've written about.

Do, however, take the time to drive to Crater Lake, which is one of the cleanest, clearest lakes in the world and the deepest in America. The shades of blue are magnificent: turquoise, sapphire, cobalt, interrupted by pale aqua strips around shallow regions of the 1,943 foot-deep volcanic caldera.

If you're one of the lucky few who books a room at the Crater Lake Lodge (xanterra.com), expect a hotel that is fairly typical of National Park Lodging. The rooms are nice, clean, and offer a memorial experience. There are also a hand-full of rustic cabins, as well as camping and RV spaces nearby. The sparse dining facilities available in the park are mediocre at best. Expect average National Park cuisine. For a good meal, you'll have to head to a nearby town.  craterlakelodges.com